A WALK IN THE PARK Dijon has several parks the largest of which is

A WALK IN THE PARK Dijon has several parks, the largest of which is the Botanical Garden , open daily 7.30am-10pm, although it closes earlier as the nights draw in. There are some carefully labelled formal beds, containing plants native to the region, and an area devoted to medicinal plants. For those who just want open space, there are plenty of grassy areas, lots of trees, pavilions and a small lake. OUT TO BRUNCH For a traditional spread of coffee, juice, croissants and jam, the Caf?ourmand (00 333 8036 8751), opposite the Ducal Palace at 9 Place de la Lib?tion It opens at 9.30am on Sundays. For a good selection of regional specialities including snails, boeuf bourguignonne or dishes cooked “?a dijonnaise” with a mustard sauce, try Au Moulin a Vent (00 333 8030 8143) in 8 Place Fran?s-Rude.

Le Pr?ux Clercs (00 333 8038 0505) at 13 Place de la Lib?tion is another choice for an excellent meal; the chef, Jean-Pierre Billoux, is long-established in Burgundy. Inside is some beautiful woodwork designed around the pillars in the transept. DINING WITH THE LOCALS There are good restaurants in several of Dijon’s hotels, including the Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge and Les Oenophiles at H? Philippe Le Bon. SUNDAY MORNING, GO TO CHURCH The church of St Michel on rue Vaillant is the most striking church in Dijon, a Gothic building whose fa?e has twin towers and an elaborate Renaissance-style porch, intricately carved and well preserved. AN APERITIF The local speciality is kir, a glass of Bourgogne Aligot?ine with a dash of cr? de cassis. This traditional aperitif acquired its name just after the Second World War, when Canon Kir was mayor of Dijon and wanted a gimmick to boost sales of cassis. A good place to order a glass is the Caveau de la Porte Guillaume (00 333 8050 8050; /hotelnord), a cellar in the H? du Nord in Place Darcy.

There is also an opportunity here to taste several of the local wines, starting at €7 (£5) for a selection of three. There are several places at which to buy regional products such as mustard or spice bread: try Auger in Place Darcy , Mulot et Petitjean in Place Bossuet , or Maille on rue de la Lib?tion, where the mustard comes straight from the pump. WINDOW SHOPPING There are plenty of good shops on the pedestrianised streets to the north and south of rue de la Lib?tion, the main street where the department store Galeries Lafayette is to be found. Visits cost €2.30 (£1.60) and take place every 45 minutes from 9am-midday, and 1.45-5.30pm, daily until mid-November; during the winter visits are hourly on Wednesday afternoons and weekends, from 9-11am, and 1.30-3.30pm.

It is interesting to see the layout of the palace and surrounding district below: the semi-circular Place de la Lib?tion in front, the theatre to the left, and the church of St Michel beyond. The bookshop is in the room that was once the palace kitchens. TAKE A VIEW If you can manage the 315-step climb up the winding staircase to the top of the Philippe Le Bon Tower – part of the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy – you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of Dijon’s old streets and the tiled roofs that are typical of the region. The extensive art collection is housed in the palace rooms, the most impressive of which is the Guards Room, containing the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy. CULTURAL AFTERNOON The centrepiece of Dijon’s cultural attractions is the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy , which now contains the Mus?des Beaux Arts (00 333 8074 5209; open daily 9.30am-6pm until the end of October, then daily except Tuesday 10am-5pm). Look out for the three-course Menu du March?t Taverne Ma?e Kanter at 18 rue Odobert (00 333 8030 8183), the Bistrot des Halles at 10 rue Bannelier (00 333 8049 9415), or Au Bon Pantagruel at 20 rue Quentin (00 333 8030 6869), which serves sandwiches and more substantial dishes. From here walk through Place Fran?s-Rude to Les Halles , the covered market designed by Gustave Eiffel.